Burberry’s Fresh Face Riccardo Tisci delivers pukka tailoring and street smarts for Spring

When the southern Italian former creative head of Givenchy took the helm at Britain‘s most loved heritage brand, the question was how he’d steer the cosy romanticism championed by Christopher Bailey into a new era. The 44-year-old-Tisci, who spent his teen years in London, has long been intrigued with the crossroads of establishment and subculture; he brought in Peter Saville of Factory Records fame to redesign the logo and began building his matrix.

Season one, entitled Kingdom, is a masterclass recalibration that stakes a claim on everyday sartorial desires. For men, it sees precise but not too skinny or uptight tailoring in shades of beige, outsized Burberry checks in overshirts, striped basketball shorts, ponchos and piquant tees bearing messages like “Who Killed Bambi?” borrowed from The Sex Pistols.

For women, the house colours of red, beige, black and white were put to work in a lineup of business/pleasure pieces that will earn their style miles in our multitasking wardrobes. Cinched-waist trench coats, flirty but chic pleated skirts, buckled capes, sassy leather skirts and ladylike jabot blouses are made immediate, purposeful, desirable with satisfyingly bold detailing.

Accessories have character, with high-top laced trainers (Tisci is a sneaker geek) and lanyards for card cases; for women, classy staples are given a spin – corresponding pumps, envelope handbags and check ankle-strap heels suggest all is tickety-boo and ready for action.