6 MONCLER NOIR’s Black Magic

“I use the contrasting elements to make a new power . . . I want to create a new atmosphere, a new feeling,” says Kei Ninomiya, who presented his first full collection at Paris Fashion Week in March. It was a triumph of innovation with shrunken biker jackets paired with voluminous ballerina skirts embellished with flowers and incongruous materials like fur and tulle stitched together in a flurry of craftsmanship.

I use the contrasting elements to make a new power . . . I want to create a new atmosphere, a new feeling

Ninomiya is a protégé of Rei Kawakubo and began his career as a pattern cutter at Comme des Garçons after enrolling at the Royal Academy of Antwerp. He excelled and launched his own label in 2012 under the Comme des Garçons umbrella. A quiet soul, he prefers to let his clothes speak rather than offer up explanations. And they do so with poetry and strength.

His extraordinary ‘no seaming’ construction techniques - he folds and manipulates fabrics into sculptural garments that have a magnetic presence – and his fearless innovation attracted Remo Ruffini at Moncler led Ninomiya to create one of the Moncler Genius capsule collections.

The designer’s obsession with black, geometry, architectural volume makes for a happy alliance with the Italian outerwear pioneer. A black lacquer bubble bolero with quilted petals will charm; a short sleeve peplum jacket would look great with tuxedo pants while a diamond-quilted dress offers elegance and protection. This is a way of dressing in black that defies norms and will thrill the eye and the heart.

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6 MONCLER NOIR’s Black Magic Exploring designer Kei Ninomiya’s idea of wearable geometry