The Passions Of Paris Giant volumes, Dynasty cocktail frocks and theatrical characters – here’s what thrilled

Julie de Libran at Sonia Rykiel amped up the silhouette with fluffly shearling bomber jackets and zippered leather mini skirts. After seasons of ankle skimming lengths, the leggy look is back. No wonder Polish designer Magda Butrym chose Dolly Parton as her ‘showgirl’ muse behind her Swarovski strewn frilled cocktail gowns and cowboy boots. This designer will be fulfilling many party girls dreams.

This was a season of ‘real’ clothes with a transformative twist. “Items that are discreet and quiet, as at Chloé and Loewe excited me. It’s about changing the core of the wardrobe,” says Camille Charrière. “Altuzarra showed in the iconic La Coupole restaurant with amazing suiting and knitwear – it was a meta Paris moment,” says Caroline Issa, Fashion Director of Tank Magazine. And all eyes were on Sarah Burton’s exceptional collection at McQueen that was inspired by the butterfly’s metamorphosis. It featured cutaway jacket and frock coats, draped and slashed butterfly print silk gowns, tuxedo jackets that exploded with giant bows from the seams and sculpted leather corsetry. “Great tailoring is empowering and there are not many designers who can cut like Burton,” says Elizabeth von Guttman, Co-founder of System Magazine.

The breakout award goes to Glenn Martens at Y/Project who melded romantic troubadour styles with street savvy denim. And the team at Celine, post Phoebe Philo’s exit, got it in a nutshell in Toulouse Lautrec print scarf dresses knotted with rings and fine jewels. Theatre, insouciance, punk improvisation and glamour in one go.