Holiday Hydration New Climate, New Approach
We all know about in-flight skincare precautions for fighting ultra-drying airplane air – cue a cabin-luggage stash of hydration sheet masks, face mists and lip balms – but what about nailing your hydration like a seasoned pro once you arrive at your destination?
We ask Dr Melissa Kanchanapoomi Levin – board-certified dermatologist in New York City and clinical instructor at Mount Sinai Icahn School of Medicine – how our skin changes in different climates, and how to find the perfect hydration products to complement each location.
Get ready to elevate your jet-setting skincare routine to sophisticated new heights.
Holiday Destination: Los Angeles, California - or hot, dry climates.
Skin Change: “The biggest skin change that we see in dry hot weather is the lack of moisture in air due to the heat and lack of humidity. Consequently, your skin becomes dry, resulting in itchy, flaky, red, or breakouts of problematic skin conditions such as acne, rosacea, or any inflammatory skin conditions.” In a skincare double whammy, the heat and sun exposure can often simultaneously increase oil production, while the dry skin cells build up on top, clogging pores and inducing breakouts. This frustrating cycle is best soothed with hydrating cosmetics that cover flaws without aggravating the skin, so its best to, “Avoid powder-based makeup and look for BB cream, oil-based or cream-based makeup products.”
How to Hydrate: “To hydrate your skin look for hyaluronic acid: one of my favourite ingredients for hydrating and moisturising as a humectant (draws water in and binds) in order to plump, moisturise and retain water within the skin. However avoid formulations with occlusive ingredients to prevent acne outbreaks, which are more typical in this climate.”
Holiday Destination: The Alps, Switzerland - or cold, snowy climates.
Skin Change: “Low humidity, cold temperatures, and high wind leads to loss of water content of the skin which results in redness, dryness, flaking, irritation, itching and fissures.” Our body’s natural oil production cannot keep up with the dry air and a vicious cycle develops as the cracks that form allow even more moisture to escape, leading to an uncomfortable, tight feeling on the skin.
How to Hydrate: “For this weather, look for moisturising ingredients such as glycerin, hyaluronic acid, panthenol, urea, honey, dimethicone, squalene and petrolatum in order to maintain a healthy skin barrier. Skin is constructed like a brick wall, skin cells or keratinocytes are the bricks and there is a lipid and protein matrix, which is the mortar. A good moisturiser should add moisture, contain occlusive ingredients, which slows water evaporation, act as a humectant, which draws water from the deeper layers of the skin, and restore that matrix.”
Holiday Destination: Panama, Central America - or humid, sweltering climates.
Skin Change: “Humid environments create a warm and moist environment. Lingering sweat and dirt can clog pores and I often see a worsening of acne, folliculitis, and heat rash, which are more common in warm climates.” Add in the fact that hot and humid climates make the perfect breeding ground for bacterial and fungal growth and it means that keeping the skin clean and well balanced is more important than ever.
How to Hydrate: “Look for lightweight moisturisers as well as exfoliation such as alpha hydroxyl acids or beta hydroxyl acids (like salicylic acids), topical antioxidants such as vitamin C, anti-inflammatories such as benzoyl peroxide, fruit or plant botanicals such as tea tree oil and lily leaf oil, and other anti-inflammatories such as niacinamide. It’s important to keep in mind that maintaining a healthy skin barrier with good moisturisers are important as well given that many acne medications can be drying.”