Eye Care Myths, Debunked Revealing the facts and fiction of eye care
While the eye area is the most delicate skin on our face, we’re often guilty of messing around with new-fangled ingredients, home remedies or eye care treatments that might not actually, well, work.
To educate us on how to properly care for our eyes, we ask Dr. Melissa Kanchanapoomi Levin - board-certified dermatologist in New York City and clinical instructor at Mount Sinai Icahn School of Medicine - to set the record straight on some of the most common eye care myths out there.
Ready to re-educate?
Home remedies such as teabags and cucumbers can help with de-puffing
“Tea bags can be used to “de-puff” around the eyes because of the decongesting properties of caffeine. Caffeine is a vasoconstrictor, which in turns reduces redness, swelling, and extensive fluid from pooling around the eyes. If swelling is associated with irritation, anti-inflammatory effects of both caffeine and cucumbers can be helpful. However, when it comes to swelling, the temporary improvements from cucumbers are from the cool temperature effect rather than anything intrinsic to the cucumber itself.”
The richer the eye cream, the better it is for combating wrinkles
“Rather than recommending a “richer” eye cream, I tend to recommend important ingredients which include: Vitamin C; niacinamide (which stimulates not only collagen production but increases ceramides and free fatty acids in the skin); Retinols, skin brighteners such as kojic acid, azelaic acid and glycolic acid - and, of course - sunscreen.”
Dark circles aren’t treatable
They are treatable - but not easily as many people think, explains Dr. Levin. “The problem is that many cosmeceuticals creams and gels on the market do little for dilated veins, volume loss and excess pigmentation. While there are multiple creams available, it really is unclear as to how effective they really are. What I do strongly recommend is protection from UV light with broad-spectrum sunscreen and regular moisturising as well as maintaining a healthy skin barrier to avoid skin irritation and dryness. For excess pigmentation around the eyes, I recommend light chemical peels such and light devices. For these procedures, multiple treatment sessions are needed, and it should only be done by a board-certified dermatologist.
Volume loss - whether it’s from loss of fat pads, collagen or bone – can give eyes a hollowed-out look. Most often this is primarily due to genetics but significant weight loss and ageing can also contribute. This can be treated with hyaluronic acid filler, however, patients should be educated about the risks and benefits first.”
Retinol can be used around the eye area
“Retinols are vitamin A derivatives which can stimulate skin cell turnover and collagen production which in turn can minimise fine wrinkles and pigmentation,” explains Dr. Levin. “However, not all retinols are made equal and there are certain retinols that are appropriate for the gentle and thinner skin around the eye. There are some skin types which can’t tolerate a retinol around the eyes. I tell my patients to go slowly or try a test spot first.”
