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6 Fashion Week Moments to Know Everything you need to know about the SS18 shows

Words by Harriet Quick / Photography by Laurent Segretier

Stairway to Heaven

Rick Owens touched mind, body and soul demanding that everyone get off their devices and look upward as models descended a monumental scaffolding tower erected in the Palais de Tokyo. His heroic yet humble cast descended parading what could be an evolutionary lesson in menswear entitled ‘Dirt’. From shorts and boots with leather pannier bags to sinuous vests to a study in jackets ‘a symbol of civilization.’

The New Uniform

The ever-pervasive influence of streetwear has culminated in what is the season’s new uniform: the tracksuit. And who does it best? Palm Angels who debuted a kaleidoscopic line-up of tracksuits in every colour of the rainbow.

Tonal Talk

Elevating one’s knowledge of colour is a point of one-upmanship and knowing how to blend is a style spur. Dries Van Noten provided a master class in subtle colorations and combinations. Note the specific names: Dragoon Blue, Zabaglione and Blush Pink. If in doubt, reference a fruit, spice or vegetable as in: toasted almond brown. Add to the ‘I want them all list,’

Ankle Gazing

Cropped trousers have ruled for aeons but there’s more ways than one to pull attention to one’s ankles. Neil Barrett offered up fine pinstripe socks while Haider Ackermann launched the thong sandal with wrap round ‘ballet’ straps that looked seriously soulful. Be prepared: socks and sandals have officially entered the school of style.

Boxy Shirts, High Waists

There’s a new cut of masculinity in town and it emphasizes a trim waist and a bold shoulder. Think of ballet supremo Rudolph Valentino, David Bowie and Cary Grant. We look forward to giving cinched chino pants and Rick Owens tuxedo pants and boleros a whirl.

Dad Cool

In the serene leafy Bois de Boulogne, Demna Gvasalia offered up his second collection for Balenciaga and it slid through the woods like a serpent. With movie-worthy characterisation, he skewered the haphazard dress code of dad’s old and dad’s new with outsize lime green blazers, dark tropical shirts and layered up trousers comprising leather shorts, jeans and chinos with rain poncho topped sweats. Wholesome looking kids paraded mini-me sweats while Twin Peaks Agent Dale Cooper aka Kyle MacLachlan sat front row with a good head of hair well-greased back.

2017-06-28 00:23:00.0