Softer lines and looser, more relaxed silhouettes mark a distinct and refreshing change of pace this Autumn, and utility has found itself as the major trend of the season.
The rigid structure that’s become the norm has given way to a newfound freedom, and menswear is taking a turn towards volume and drape. Jackets rebel against traditional tailoring, with rounded shoulders that literally shrug off the constraints of their formerly tight counterparts. Anoraks, hoodies and ponchos layer with jackets, as designers combine streetwear with suiting. This fluid silhouette is a definite nod to the 1970s and it emerges most strongly with a revival of shearling as well as the comeback of a wider-leg trouser.
Neil BarrettAlexander McQueenNeil BarrettAlexander McQueen
While a military aesthetic returns to the catwalks, it comes back in a new, more subtle iteration, with designers taking embellishment, rather than structure, from the look. Khaki green dominates, and pieces take a distinct utilitarian twist, with parkas and anoraks taking the place of fitted jackets. Naturally, the most wearable way to introduce it into your wardrobe is paired with denim, but for a new-season spin, make it the starting point of a modern man’s suit and pair it with a fitted trouser.
Shearling (which is leather or sheepskin with the wool attached) is imbued with a heroic, masculine appeal thanks to fighter pilots who wore it during WW2. Known for its insulating qualities, designers across the board have embraced its rugged, tactile allure for the season ahead. The key piece? It could only ever be the shearling jacket, now thoroughly re-invented and slimmed down for a cool and contemporary look.
GivenchyAlexander McQueenAlexander McQueen
Utilitarian elements subtly enhance modern tailoring with zips and fasteners replacing buttons. The jacket retains its traditional structure but the key change is the rounded shoulder, the new focal point in classic pieces. Breaking away from sombre greys, tailoring this season incorporates a range of blues, from sky to navy, as well as a return to check, playing with proportion and colour to update a classic menswear print.
LanvinDries van Noten
The new wider leg heralds a fundamental silhouette change in menswear and is surprisingly flattering, balancing out broad or muscular physiques by drawing the eye downwards. A rebellion against the slim trouser that has dominated for so long, it feels almost momentous to free your limbs from their skinnies. En masse, designers have embraced the wider leg, from simply a more relaxed fit to a fuller-flowing wool trouser. And while a billowing trouser with a gathered hem gets column inches from the catwalks, a more versatile way to incorporate this trend is with a simple relaxed or subtly flared shape paired with a fitted jacket or sweater.
BalenciagaMaison MargielaPierre Hardy
Designers have explored the use of pattern in accessories, from the grains and textures of concrete and marble to more organic paint-splattered styles. These timeless, building materials complement the clean, futuristic silhouettes that are beginning to dominate menswear.